Kitten Info

How I breed

Why do I breed cats?!
To me, the Sacred Birman is one of the most beautiful and loving cat breeds.
My goal is to preserve this breed according to the standard and to improve it through breeding. In my cattery I place particular emphasis on good type and a light body coat.
I also place particular importance on the temperament of my cats:
an affectionate, people-oriented kitten brings joy not only to me; above all, its future "can opener" will appreciate it. I don't accept arguments like "there are already enough homeless cats". I learned first-hand how difficult it is to take a little farm kitten into a two-room flat. Pedigree cats, or at least my Birmans, don't have the same urge to roam as a farm cat.
They are born in my bedroom, raised in the living room, and from the very start they are focused on people and used to life indoors.
I aim for a Birman type that is closer to the original Birman type: for me that means strong, sturdy cats with a strong head, not round, strong cheeks, a well-defined profile, chin and a good nose line,
with a silky coat with little undercoat and a body coat that doesn't darken too much
This cat embodies everything I have set as the goal of my cattery:
Bebe is a seal point who is very light, with a wonderful profile and the old type, and she lived to be over 21 years old
Health:
No breeder likes to breed cats that suddenly drop dead after one or two years! When it happens, it is truly tragic. My top priority is to breed healthy cats... and I do everything in my power to achieve that:
preventive health checks for my breeding cats, such as:

• Blood typing
• PKD gene test
• FIP-R gene test
• HCM scan

are a matter of course for me
as well as ongoing veterinary monitoring of my cattery,
good food and the best care
Coat colour:
Birmans are beautiful cats, and for me their special charm also lies in the contrast between the point colour and the body coat colour.
Unfortunately, many Birmans darken considerably on the body as they age; I have/had such cats too.......... so my goal is to breed for the lightest body coat possible
Type:
Type is also very important to me. I prefer the old Birman type, not a Persian look-alike!
with a rather triangular head, not round, and normal-sized ears.
A good profile is especially important to me, which for me means chin and nose line (a real nose line, not an apparent one.... created by forehead hair combed forward), and of course a sturdy, strong build.

My principles

Here I would like to tell you about the principles by which I run my cattery.........

what breeding means to me.......
That I breed with cats I have raised myself / my own lines,
that through well-thought-out pairings and only a few outside additions I try to improve my lines..... bringing them closer to the standard,

Honesty & openness

in my private life as well as in cat breeding, being honest is very important to me!
I can't and won't hide anything, and why would I...........I'm not afraid of bad publicity!
For me, the most important thing in cat breeding isn't money or profit, but being able to look at myself in the mirror tomorrow :-)) and, of course, my love for my cats.

Transparency on the website

Anyone visiting my website can see which cat had babies when and by which male, which cat is neutered, has moved out or has passed away... etc. ...
I'm not embarrassed to mention illnesses that have occurred, see HCM or FIP, and I'm not embarrassed to make an oops litter public......
..... I think these are the things people should pay attention to,
who look at my website and are searching for a kitten as a pet or breeding cat
or want to form an opinion.... about why I write this or act this way...
it feels good to me; a clear conscience is the softest pillow :-))

How our kittens grow up

Here's a little glimpse into our kitten room
this is where the little ones are born
next to the whelping box there is a bed where I sleep in the days before and after the birth so I can always be with the mum-to-be :)
There is also a mini kitchen in this room so mum and kittens can be looked after quickly
the litter box is hidden under the TV
The whelping box with everything you need for a birth
Our whelping box is equipped with a light, heating pad, anti-crush rails and nesting material
The birthing kit
In case there are ever problems, we have designed an incubator :)
It consists of a foot-warming pad (running continuously on 12 volts) that reaches about 40 degrees, with a transparent lid and a fluffy liner. To keep the kittens from drying out, you can also hang a damp cloth inside. It has already served us very well :)

Here I would like to introduce our kitten room
at around 3-4 weeks of age, our kittens move from the "birthing room" into the kitten room. This room is right next to our living room and is closed off with a gate so the little ones stay in their safe area.
Kitten room 2
this is our 2nd kitten room, also with access to our living area. It is bigger, and from there the little ones can also get out onto our terrace :)

Here I would like to show you my cats' outdoor enclosures and my secured terrace....
our catwalk for my male and his lady
... this is my terrace, the catwalk now runs along the top of the fence. It is about 50 sqm, and my darlings love spending the evening together with us.........
my Birmans can also enjoy two more new outdoor enclosures, one of which is for the male

Pet kittens and breeding kittens

Pet quality
A conscientious cat breeder has precise and strict selection criteria for assessing their young cats.
If a kitten is declared pet quality, it means that in the breeder's judgement the kitten is not suitable for breeding:
there can be various reasons for this:
e.g. not typey enough, colour faults, poor eye colour, etc.
I then sell these kittens as pet-quality kittens
none of these small flaws matter to the cat itself; it is just as sweet and just as lovable, and I think they don't matter to a cat lover who simply wants a little kitten to enjoy either,
but
but for a conscientious cat breeder they matter a great deal!!
The purpose of breeding is to improve a breed and to preserve its beauty and health.
I have no understanding for people who simply buy two pet-quality cats and then start breeding with them,
or even mate Birmans with other cat breeds

Breeding/show quality
if you would like your kitten to have babies one day, you should buy a kitten of breeding and/or show quality
A breeding/show cat is assessed and sold as such at the breeder's discretion if it meets the following criteria.

• good lineage
• type, eye colour, gloves, laces etc. come as close as possible to the breed standard
• The kitten shows no hereditary faults such as chin spot, kinked tail, monorchidism, squint, etc.

I advise anyone interested in a breeding cat to study the breed thoroughly beforehand!
Being well informed helps you avoid a bad purchase!

Early castration

Here I would like to address the controversial topic of early neutering...
My pet kittens are preferably sold already neutered!
I have been having my kittens neutered early since 2006, and so far I have had nothing but good experiences
There is no reliable documented study showing that early neutering harms kittens, but there is indeed a study showing that it has no negative effects on their development and life.

When they move out and what they take with them

General INFO about my kittens
Every mating is carefully planned by me
During pregnancy, the mother cats always receive the very best care from me, and the babies are born in my bedroom in a calm environment..
The babies spend their first 3 - 4 weeks in a heated whelping box
At 4 weeks the babies move into the kitten room (next to my living room, with constant visual and audible contact), where they can learn to eat and become litter trained..
After that they are allowed to explore the living room..............
The little ones receive the best possible medical care with me
During this time they are fed good premium dry and wet food from various brands to prevent them from becoming fixated on one kind of food
The little ones are dewormed several times during their first 14 weeks, as well as directly before/at the time they leave
They are vaccinated against feline distemper and cat flu at around 10 -11 weeks and 13 - 14 weeks of age
On request, a rabies vaccination is given from week 12 - on request I have the kittens microchipped
Breeding cats leave us with a blood type test, PKD gene test, FIV, FELV and FIP-R gene test
When a kitten from my cattery moves out, it takes the following with it:

• Pedigree from KFG or KFB/1.DEKZV
• Feeding recommendations
• Familiar food for the first few days
• A familiar toy to help it settle in
• European vaccination passport and microchip
• Rabies vaccination on request
• For breeding cats, FIP-R test, rabies vaccination and microchip

After moving out
It is my wish to hear about the little ones from time to time, and I am always delighted to receive a photo now and then. Good contact with the new owners is very much welcome...
......Of course, I am always happy to offer advice if any problems arise!

Health care for young cats:
Feed a varied diet
Keep in mind that the immune system is not yet fully developed
Give good intestinal bacteria
Take out pet health insurance for your cat

Prices

Our prices: kittens 1200 euros, young cats (from 9 months) 900 euros, neutered cats 700 euros.
The kittens are vaccinated, microchipped and already neutered.
If you have any problems with your kitten, we are always there for you.
We offer a return guarantee: if introducing the kitten to other pets does not work out, we will take the kitten or cat back.
Replacement in case of death: if a kitten dies within the first two years after the sale, the cause of death is attributable to the breeder or their lines/cats, and an autopsy report is available, we will provide a replacement.
We do not need to make money from breeding. Breeding is our passion.
I only sell my cats with a pedigree!

Buyers who are asked to pay between 500 - 900 euros for a pedigree cat often quickly multiply this amount by an average litter size of 4 kittens, which would make an extra 2000,- to 3000,- euros of easy money for the breeder, but it is not that simple!

This overview does not include vet costs for illnesses of the kittens or caesarean births
Not to mention all the work and worry a conscientious cat breeder has while raising a litter.

Reservation and contract

• When you reserve a kitten, a deposit of € 250,- is due. For breeding cats, the deposit is a quarter of the purchase price.
• You can withdraw from the reservation within 7 working days. In this case, the seller retains a handling fee of € 50 (forfeit money under § 353 BGB). The rest of the deposit will be refunded.
• If you withdraw from the reservation later, the full deposit goes to the seller

• Pet cats are preferably placed early-neutered

• If your kitten does not settle in, or by mutual agreement, the contract can be reversed

• You agree to buy the kitten for your own purposes only and not to sell it or give it away to third parties. Should parting with the cat become unavoidable, you agree to inform the breeder beforehand.

Warranty

Consequences for pet owners

If the cat you bought becomes seriously or life-threateningly ill, you must inform the breeder immediately and in detail!
If a cat dies, you must arrange for a post-mortem examination;
No vet records, post-mortem report and exact knowledge of the cause of death - no compensation!

Consequences for me as a breeder

Breeding only with healthy cats, i.e. cats tested for diseases: e.g. PKD-1 (gene test) and HCM ultrasound (at the appropriate age), FeLV, FIV.
Cats are only sold in perfectly healthy condition
If you, as the buyer of my cat, inform me precisely:
about any serious illness of the cat or its death for which I as the breeder am responsible, then of course I will provide a replacement, i.e. you will receive from me a cat that I consider of equal value!

My interpretation of sections 474 - 478

For me, the following applies:
For kittens aged 12 weeks to 9 months: 2-year warranty.
For adult cats (from 9 months): 1-year warranty.
This means that if a kitten/cat dies within 2 years of the sale from a genetic disease or from an illness that demonstrably already existed when the kitten was sold, I am obliged to provide a replacement.
During the first 6 months after selling a cat, I as the breeder must prove that the cat was healthy at the time of sale.
After that, you as the buyer must prove that the cat was already ill at the time of purchase.